Once your account is created, you'll be logged-in to this account. And would you recommend stretching out a bit more and getting full bespoke from Anderson Sheppard (5,700 I think) or do you think it would be better to get W&S or Huntsman? Londons Best New Tailors Arent on Savile Row. Id pick between the two on style more than anything else. Insisting on something still identifiable as W & S, bearing Bob and Johns beautiful fingerprints but of much softer construction, I was reassured with confidence by Suresh. Thanks very much. However even though we probably buy the same brands (and silks) my four-in-hand tends to come out smaller and less tilted. Youll have to contact them. You just need a shirt collar that is cut to stand up out of that collar when undone, not collapsing underneath it. thanks! The coatmaker, Bob, is also coming on trips that John isnt. Subscribe to RR1 Live+ for exclusive virtual events all year long (at least 1 per month), conversations with Robb Report editors, special perks, and more. And it would look a touch more formal than a Neapolitan, but as long as youre happy with that (and my Gieves is similar in cut) then that would work fine. But yes, I know the trend you mean. PS Presents 23: Arterton, LEJ, Marrkt, Fox and Rubato, Click on an image to enlarge. Also, in terms of Whitcombs house styleI prefer a more classical style although my technical knowledge of suiting is lacking. Fit not good. The Classic Bespoke follows the same fitting process as our Savile Row Bespoke. My reason for the proposal is that i had a bespoke suit made by Whitcomb & Shaftesbury last year and i cant say i was impressed by their service, but i am also not sure if my expectations were set too high. Ie price including VAT is GBP 1362. Is there an equivalent for this type of value with other articles (i.e. Classic Race Simulators Showroom Tripadvisor: I will still use my other London tailor but certainly plan to include W&S in the rotation. I dont want any slim, modern stuff. The British firm combines several Savile Row stalwarts with an Indian workshop that helps families in need. I was hoping that you might be able to recommend a particular type of fabric. All garments are cut and made in workshops in the west end of London. Simon What am I missing? After all, people happily walk into Canali and hand over 1500 for factory made MTM suits from a block pattern I would expect to pay much closer to 2k for a bespoke product like this (which even then is still a cracking deal). The only thing youd be looking for is a difference in execution and there are some tiny points there. I notice that they have recently taken on a new cutter called Sian Walton. If the later, have you seen any examples? Just what Im looking for. By the way, Sian is the other cutter at Whitcomb now, and is very good in my experience. Every hem and lining felled by hand, buttonhole sewn with silk and trouser hand-sewn with curtained waistbands. Im looking at getting a first sportsjacket for casual wear made but the justification of 1500 for one despite the longetivity is negative. When he died, his son, also named George, inherited the property and began to lease out parcels of land to tailors. Id start with Whitcombs offshore bespoke. Also, is it usually preferable to have the person you first meet about a garment also do the pattern and fitting? Cloth - Suits Read More Artisan of the Year 2021: Whitcomb & Shaftes. Have been considering a Drakes MTM recently Simon, as a soft option. From what Ive seen of the Huntsman service its good, but it is expensive for what it is. Fashion Designer - Whitcom & Shaftesbury Several top brands including Dunhill, Gieves & Hawkes, and Ozwald Boateng offer this service. The quality of his work surpasses anything I have had from the Row, or any of the big name French or Italian tailors often named here. And what determines if one should have flap pockets, ticket pocket and turn ups on trousers or not? I also liked the jetted pockets (although I thought you only liked them on tuxes). The result may be due to specifics in my case. Will introduce myself soon when I see you around. Cloth: Holland & Sherry, Classic Worsteds, 12/13oz. I think there is often a risk with bespoke that people expect perfection, and everything to have been considered for them, when it is more interactive, and does have most benefits over time. Thank you very much for your assistance. I dont think this is something you have covered already (apologies if i have missed it). That was more specific to Rubinacci. Perhaps try Graham Browne. shoes, shirts, etc.)? I like the house styles of Henry Poole and G&H, but I hoped to get the first bespoke suits a little bit cheaper. And hands out of pockets do allow a superior view of cut and style.. nice one. vergallo e.2200 for suit, e1750 for jacket Moreover, thanks to the well-oiled workings of the Chennai workshop, New York customers who place orders during the first leg of the trunk show (November 16-19), will be able to have their pieces fitted when the brothers pass back through New York between November 29 and December 1, negating a long wait (most tailors wont return to fit clients till spring 2022). Id always recommend that you stick to a tailors house style as much as possible. Thank you and have a pleasant weekend. Really great blog. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury offer two types of service: both cut and fitted in London, but one mostly made in India ('Classic Bespoke') the other made in London ('Savile Row Bespoke'). Thanks for all the informative articles. around 3000 but entirely made by them)? Like this article? Congrats on the blog. Youre really in the market for made to measure, not bespoke. Hi Jon, I do think its worth asking, as they are generally quite open to such ideas, but at the same time if they seem hesitant then dont push it. Im looking forward to stopping by! Couldnt have been more pleased with it! Have a look at my posts in the past on Rubinacci bespoke. Wonderful. People even complain when they find out some of the work is being done just off Carnaby Street, rather than in a basement off Savile Row. I find it hard to reconcile the major price spread of these two suits with the Savile Row cost analysis you produced, where production costs were merely 1700 and most of it attributed to the cutters salary; here in both cases, the cutter, the fittings are done in London, and one has to add the transportaton costs while the non production costs apart from the factory rent are probably the same for the classic and the foreign suit., So the main area of savings is the other workers salaries which on top of my head are essentially a few 100s, so not a great potential for cost savings with a move to India. I guess this is relevant to the greatest number of people in the context of a bespoke suit, and it would great to know what are the key points that should be thought about (choice of cloth etc.). Your website is an amazing read. They certainly could, and Id say you should expect at least two fittings ideally three (with the last one being with a finished suit, but something small needs to be tweaked always a good idea to get that tweak, painful as it may be! I am no expert in cloth so I can very easily have been mistaken and, of course, you know better than I what you have being made. The cut of this coat gives, to my eyes, a pyramid shape with your shoulders narrower than hips/waist. Interestingly, there is also quite a lot of drape to the chest something I like on my Anderson & Sheppard suits both for their comfort and impression of a bigger upper body. document.getElementById( "ak_js_1" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); document.getElementById( "ak_js_2" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); The blue suitseems to be a popular choice for people in sales professions at the moment. Those two are often the best ways to communicate style, I really only wear white, which is why we launched with this. They wont move the button or buttonhole, but they might open the shoulder seam and pick one side up slightly. Very happy with her. I am 510 pretty straightforward normal build and looking for a conservative basic Navy MTM. Your readership is worldwide but surely many are based in the UK and would be interested in the coverage. Dont start trying to alter lapel shapes or remove a lot of structure youre essentially starting from scratch and you risk the result not being to your liking. My worry for a business like W&S is that theyre underselling themselves the price seems too much of a bargain. One of the things you commonly say is not to change house style too much as there is a risk it might not turn out as expected, based on cutter experience, etc. Simon's books and product collaborations are available to buy through the Permanent Style shop. Just focusing on the big-name tailors and dominant styles to start with. I have got two questions which I think a lot of people toil with. I am unsatisfied considering GB is 850 but their forte is not in this style of tailoring. Thanks for your reply Simon. This is great to know. Accepting your assurances that it is navy, I think it looks great and would do well in my eyes for my perception of business which may differ from those in the financial sector, I didnt Im afraid no, so I dont have the cost. Subscribe now and save. Maybe this blog will help change that. Hi, And if the Italians with their inherent expressiveness dress brightly, boldly Read More, Mens accessories: the image of a man It is undeniable that the image consists of details. I agree building a relationship is a big part of it, yes. For sewing the shirt you can choose the following fabrics: poplin, jacquard, oxford, twill, pinpoint or herringbone. I wanted to share my experience at W&S. The term bespoke comes from the verb bespeak, which means to speak for something. Permanent Style is the UK authority on classic and luxury menswear. All chests are hand felled and lapels and collars are hand padded. Can you recommend me some affordable tailors in london? Whilst acknowledging that the intent of any bespoke tailoring is to enhance and flatter the wearer, I would be interested to read more about the tricks of the trade used to mitigate different physical challenges. I have large shoulders, am tall and have a relatively slim waist, but dont feel comfortable looking bigger. With a business suit I can see the clear value add with the handpadding of canvas and shoulders, but for softer tailoring of less canvassing and natural shoulders, (overall less structure) the compromise should not be as drastic? I remember you recommending MTM for those building a trouser wardrobe, but im not sure if this company would follows ideal fit, considering they outsource their labor and the cutter is not in consultation with you. Its when the cutter is never present that you really have to worry. McCabe and Bigg are masters of old English styling, whereas Walton cuts a comfortable, contemporary jacket with drape with shape, loosely inspired by her training (under McCabe) at Kilgour. Bravo! As bespoke is new to me, for both pieces i did my best to educate myself beforehand, but naturally must rely on the experience of the service provider. Here is a simple way to think about it. Do you mind me asking what make your glasses are? Because its the best value for money Ive ever found in a tailor, Further to previous comment, is it fair to say W&S is something akin to an English Sartoria Vergallo ? Not for anything approaching a Neapolitan cut Stuart, no. Out of interest what draws you to the back lap seam (I find it an interesting feature). It is just one mans opinion but going in I was definitely expecting more. I cant comment on how many of your readers are in a position like me (i.e. The biggest danger is when you get to structural things (eg shoulders) or things that arent linear and therefore easy to describe (eg the shape of a lapel). Not really Im afraid Chris I havent had a chance to try it or look through the process in detail. Thanks, and great suggestions. Such are the hassles of bespoke tailoring. We now turn to the problems I believe the suit has. After giving myself a headache of what tailor to try next after a poor experience from a new(ish) city tailoring firm (that shall remain nameless), I commissioned a new suit from GB in Dec. Gone for a nice navy classic worsted. To give some context, i am early 30s and now have the income to dabble with a few bespoke pieces; so far, this suit and spectacles from General Eyewear (selected based on reviews on your site, thanks!). I might someday soon be able to have a quality bespoke suit as this falls within my budget. Just 30 Read More, Savile Row Savile Row is a street located in the center of London, United Kingdom. Im sure youve mentioned it elsewhere but which of the Neapolitan tailors are you thinking of in particular? Youll find a few reviewed here, most obviously W&S, Graham Browne, Choppin & Lodge, and Manning & Manning. 1. I also appreciate your point about opening up the possibilities, rather than providing something concrete and narrow, which is not something i had considered, but fully makes sense. Coat Details Fabric Pattern: Solid. The same business model doesnt quite exist, no. The size is down to the tie thicker silk or lining for a bigger knot, a wider tie for a longer knot.. as Ive indicated in my comments on your Vergallo loden coat post, I will also be trying the W&S classic bespoke service for a winter flannel suit. We wanted to do things the right way, Suresh continues. As they are roughly in the same price range, I consider both of them for my first bespoke suit. It looks a really nice sturdy twill from the picture. However, how far does that extend to? Alex N. Even in fittings when there are no buttons and buttonholes, there will be rows of stitching or chalk marks where the buttons are planned to go, and these will line up. Wondered if you had any thoughts ? When buttoning I believe this creates a line along the right side of the jacket and most importantly pushes the collar up and it doesnt stay flush to my neck. I have 2 W+S suits now and have been happy with both (both business suits). Thanks Chris, thats always helpful, and yes absolutely, aware of how beneficial it would be. Ill ask. top of page. However, am i expecting too much? I also found the comments of others instructive and food for thought. The fact is that I havent had the fortune to connect with any Neapolitan tailors like I have a couple in London, so I asked Suresh what they were comfortable with. in the style breakdown series. Could you also compare the house styles of both tailors? If you want to be safe, try on something they already have and give your opinion on it. The real benefits of bespoke are in the long term, for example when you have gone through it once or twice, and know exactly what you want and what to ask about during the sessions. 11 St. George Street is a throwback to more elegant times. Looking at the second photo the silhouette appears to show a wider hip then shoulder and quite large flaps. I understand none of the cutters will come on this trip but Bob will be present for the initial consultation and measurement. Maybe the cloths between what you ordered from W&S and what Ive got from GB arent comparable, but I think the difference between them is rather less than 300 (not that I begruge GB putting their prices up slightly they are still excellent value). Following your review of W&S I have scheduled an appointment for their upcoming visit to NY. Vergallo doesnt get enough attention they remain excellent value. Your comments in the discussion are helpful in triangulating their merits. HB, In some ways, yes, though the structure etc is different and the value itself even better too. A similar question. Was this cloth amongst their offerings at their base price or was there a cost supplement? Apparel & clothing. My advice would be, as with any bespoke, to start simple and classic. Do you recommend against a tuxedo as a first commission from a tailor? Whitcomb might have a slightly greater range in style than Sexton, but not much. Im a student , Look up Graham Browne and Whitcomb on this site. Great width and shape of the lapels with a nice roll, and well balanced gorge (dont you think the modern gorge placement is too high?). I am probably being naive, but my expectation prior to these two experiences was that i should be able to turn up and they do the hardwork for me. I note your enthusiasm for W&S. They have outfitters (not tailors) who measure you, and their cutters/tailors are in Hong Kong. Thanks for this. And although some of these details werent perfect on the examples I saw in the Whitcomb & Shaftesbury workrooms, this lap seam was very nicely done. Great post Simon, really enjoyed. For years, we had our suits made, explains Suresh, and we both felt that you could find good product, but it was a struggle to find good advice. Important stitching unfinished and then came undone. Full disclosure: I did weigh 6kg more when I ordered the suit than I did at the first fitting. How would you compare the style and quality of a W&S suit to either A&S or Steven Hitchcock? Between them, this trio can bring to bear a huge range of different skills. Free shipping for many products! Was planning to do so with W&S during their next trunk show. Equally, as Im probably going to take the leap, if youd like any feedback from me on it, Id be more than happy to share. The entire team was excellent and I await the return of their overseas visits. The program helped to rehabilitate families whod had been affected by the tsunami, giving them new ways to earn a living, Suresh explains. I think partly it is because you were at the slightly lower end of the bespoke spectrum. I noticed that the Saman Emel jacket (22 January 2018) gives more prominence to your shoulders and to my eyes, a more balanced presentation. Thanks!! Whitcomb & Shaftesbury Bespoke 2 Button Sport Coat 48 S. Fabric is soft with a fur appearance. Therefore, I will not be going back as I see it as a bit of a risk. I wouldnt worry as regards experience John and Bob (coatmaker) have plenty of experience there. Would you have any advice for what I should ask for if you dont think their house style fits with that criteria? Id say they are both very good. I had a strict deadline though. I always try and relax and dont rush my fittings. Similarly for General Eyewear, great guys and i am very happy with the end result. Yes, it would be just as acceptable (and in the same way, a little showy). On the style questions, eg pockets, have you looked through the Suit Style series of posts? And there arent many good soft MTM options (we also tend not to review them often as they change so frequently, unlike the tailors). Turn ups on trousers or not with an Indian workshop that helps families in need with that criteria and... 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